The canine distemper virus (CDV) causes a highly contagious disease in dogs known as distemper. Dogs who contract distemper suffer damage to their gastrointestinal, central nervous and respiratory systems. Distemper is incurable and often fatal. Puppies between the ages of three and six months are most susceptible to the disease, although older dogs and other carnivorous mammals can also contract distemper.

At one time, distemper was the leading cause of death among puppies that had not been vaccinated. Since the distemper vaccine was created in the early 60s, incidents of distemper and distemper related deaths have dropped considerably. CDV is transmitted via airborne viral particles that dogs inhale. Infected dogs also shed the virus through bodily secretions and excretions. In this manner it is easy for an infected dog to cause the infection of another dog. Distemper causes a multitude of symptoms that include various respiratory and gastrointestinal symptoms to central nervous system disorders.

A clean, warm, and draft free environment should be created and maintained to ensure the dog is as comfortable as possible. The eyes and nose should be kept free of discharge, and medication to treat diarrhea should be administered. Dogs suffering from distemper must be given plenty of fluids to help reduce fever and prevent dehydration. Other symptoms are treated as they appear if possible. Like any viral disease, prevention is a much better and more successful option than treatment and the best option is vaccination during the early weeks of life.

The absolute first thing you must train your dog to do is  is housebreaking No, no, you don’t teach your dog how to break into your house when you forget your keys. Housebreaking means he must learn where and when he may do his business. Besides being substantially advantageous to the hygiene of your household, dogs benefit from having rules and a routine as pack animals, they look for duties issued by the pack leader and naturally enjoy keeping schedules. Here are the steps to housebreaking your dog.

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• The best age to begin housebreaking your puppy is between 8 and 12 weeks old.
• Because dogs, thank goodness, don’t believe in eliminating by their sleeping areas, your puppy will not relieve himself in the crate unless you’ve cruelly locked him in there for longer than he was able to hold it in. Three-month old puppies generally need to eliminate every three hours, so lead your puppy to a designated outdoor bathroom spot often.
• Try to take your dog out at around the same times each day. A routine will eventually be established, and your dog will soon know to hold it in until you take him out.
• Experts suggest incorporating a crate in a young dog’s training process. A crate usually resembles a cage, with a locking door and see-through bars, and should be big enough for the dog to move around in. While it sounds like a miniature jail cell, crates should not be used to punish your puppy. The idea is to make the crate into a doggy bedroom - someplace where your puppy can play and sleep. He should never be confined in his crate for more than two hours at a time.
• If your not-yet-housebroken dog is used to roaming freely around the house, look for clues that tell you he needs to go. Your dog may suddenly put his nose down and sniff the ground intently. He may begin to circle an area. Or, he may stare at the door with an intense look on his face. Signs like these tell you to drop what you’re doing and get that dog out of the house. If you catch your dog doing his business inside, rush over and stop him by grasping his collar, pulling up on it, and saying, "NO" in a deep, stern voice. Then take him outside to let him finish up and praise him with pats on the head or a pleasantly chirped, "Good Fido!" when he does.
• Try to always leave the house through the same door - the door you’d like your dog to scratch at to signal his need to go out in the future.

The Deerhound is one of the most decorative of dogs, impressively stately and picturesque wherever he is seen, whether it be amid the surroundings of the baronial hall, reclining at luxurious length before the open hearth in the fitful light of the log fire that flickers on polished armour and tarnished tapestry; out in the open, straining at the leash as he scents the dewy air, or gracefully bounding over the purple of his native hills. Grace and majesty are in his every movement and attitude, and even to the most prosaic mind there is about him the inseparable glamour of feudal romance and poetry. 

From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbourhoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organised coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief’s larder.

Head

The head should be broadest at the ears, tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the colour is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the lighter-coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard.  

Eyes

The eyes should be dark: generally they are dark brown or hazel.  The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.  

Ears

The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like  the Greyhound’s, though raised above the head in excitement without  losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect.The ear should be  soft, glossy, and like a mouse’s coat to the touch, and the smaller  it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there  is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip.  Whatever the general color, the ears should be black or dark-colored. 

Neck and shoulders

The neck should be long that is, of the length  that befits the Greyhound character of the dog.  The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them.

Body

The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail. 

Stern

Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 1-1/2 inches of the ground, and about 1-1/2 inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curved. When in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry, underside longer.

Coat

The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind-legs, but nothing approaching to the feathering of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated. 

Legs and feet

The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Fore-legs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat.  

Height

From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of bitches: From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are.
        
Color

Color is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt  that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and  lighter grey or brindle, the darkest being generally preferred.  Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, especially with black points i.e.,  ears and muzzle are also in equal estimation.

Sledding is a sport of endurance and speed. It is an activity demanding skill and strength. It is a bonding experience for dogs and their owners. It is a sport in which you and your dogs must work as a team. You must all be in synch. You and the crew must be in the best physical and psychological shape possible if you want to get the most out of the sport. You all have to be in top form if you want to compete successfully.

Requirements

Sledding demands teamwork. You and your dogs must work as a single unit. There has to be a leader and willing followers. At the same time, from you and the lead dog down to the supporting crew, you must unite to accomplish a single goal. Without this mindset and coordinated effort, you cannot function as a sled team.

Your dogs need to possess several characteristics. They must have endurance. They must have strength. This is not a job for a weakly built and lazy dog. Above all, the dogs must have a love of pulling weights and doing so in the snow.
You need to have patience. You must be aware of your role as a guide and encourager. You have to know the terminology. You need to familiarize yourself with various types of trails. You also have to be acquainted with the various types of specialized equipment.

Equipment

The equipment for sledding varies with the usage. There are two basic types of sled: basket and toboggan. The toboggan is for longer distances. There are also training carts. Familiarize yourself with the different types and their specific usages.
Harnesses are also of two types. There is the X-back. This is the type utilized in dog races. There is also the weight-puling harness. As the name suggests, this is the purpose of this harness.

Other basic equipment includes a gang-line. This incorporates towline, tug lines and neckline. You will also require a sled bag. To protect the paws of your dogs you may consider another item. These are dog booties.

Training

The rules for training for this sport are similar to those of other activities. You need to start them young. Do not work the dogs inappropriately. This may cause strains and effect growth of bones and muscles. This will create problems later.

You have to work in two formats. These are team and solitary. You need to identify and work on the strengths and function of each dog. You also have to work each dog within a team format. It is of no use if each dog wants to be the leader.

If you have a single dog, you need to find a team in which he or she can function as a useful team member. You will need to introduce him or her to the pack. You will have to train your dog to fit into this position. If the team and your dog are not a good mix, you will have to find another team. Do not rush it.

If you are going to be fully involved, you also need to be in good shape. You will have to engage in a healthy program of exercise and diet. Talk to other sledders about their fitness program. Consider a personal trainer. However, before you go decide upon this particular role, check it out. There are resorts and other places where you can try being a dog sledder. See if you can handle or want to handle a team of lively and strong-willed animals. If it is a natural fit, then take the appropriate steps.

Information written by Kirk Cooley of Oh My Dog Supplies, check out our complete selection of small pet carriers online.